March/April 2010
Location: Egypt (Luxor, Aswan, Abu Simbel & Cairo)
Wednesday 31st March:
Me, Derek and my mam were on the road to Birmingham airport at an ungodly 2:15am. We were so hyper about going to Egypt we chatted the entire three hours or so that it took for us to get there. And we were still spritely after our five and a half hour flight to Luxor (the long queue waiting to buy visas and the even longer wait to get through customs didn’t even dampen our spirits).
When we finally arrived at our 4T Nile Explorer cruise (aka The Ritz), we were given keys to rooms 212 and 213 right next to reception. The rooms were certainly not Ritz standard – but considering we only needed them for sleeping in (for what little sleep we did end up getting!) and for showering in, it didn’t concern us. The sheets were clean and the bathroom was clean, and that’s all that mattered.
After unpacking we headed up to the top deck to watch the sun set at 6:30. As soon as the sun went down the drop in temperature was really quite significant – and we all felt nippy! Nevertheless, we all had a glass of lager and sat outside watching the world go by at the water’s edge of Luxor on the East Bank.
We discovered that meal times (we were all inclusive) were to be waiter service, rather than buffet – which was quite daunting at first, because I prefer to help myself (being the picky type). But that said our first evening meal was lovely.
Booked our entire week full of excursions after dinner, and when a man walked into the bar with the most outrageous comb-over hairstyle in the world, and shorts pulled right up to his armpits, alongside a sixty-odd year old woman who presumably thought she was Shakira, we knew we were in for a treat!
Thursday 1st April:
As soon as our heads had hit the pillows it was time to get up again (or so it felt). After a speedy breakfast, we were boarded onto a coach and introduced to our tour guide, for the whole week, Ashraf. Our first destination was the Colossi of Memnon, where we got around ten minutes in which to get off the coach to take photos. The two stone statues were enormous, and had quite an Alien Vs Predator feel to them.
After much snapping of cameras, we were then off to visit the Valley of the Kings. As well as no cameras being allowed here (which was a great shame), coaches can’t take you to the tombs – so we boarded a tuff tuff to take us instead (a vehicle that looks like a long golf buggy). Our first stop off was at the tomb of Rameses II – where Ashraf gave us a brief history lesson outside on the steps leading to the entranceway. This tomb is closed to the general public (we had to make do with looking in through the metal gates), so Ashraf almost had kittens when we detected movement from inside – but it turned out to be archaeologists at work, and not the wandering spirit (or mummy) of Rameses II...which, again, was a shame.
Afterwards we visited the tombs of Rameses IX, Rameses III and then Rameses I. Inside each tomb the craftsmanship was absolutely fascinating. Long eerie passageways full of wall to wall inscriptions that must have taken years to complete. And all the while, it felt as though we were walking inside of an oven. The air was stifling and musty. Some of the tombs were perilously steep whilst walking through too, and we saw quite a few people struggling and panting to get back out. The carvings and paintwork was stunning and vibrant, despite the fact that most of them are around 3000 years old – if only Dulux could learn the secret!
We decided not to pay extra to see King Tutankhamen’s tomb. We’d been advised by other tourists that it was merely a money spinner and there wasn’t much to see.
After our tour round the Valley of the Kings we hopped back on the coach and called into an alabaster factory to do some shopping. Derek and I bought a large stone wall plaque depicting The Final Judgement to go on our hall wall back home, and then all shopped out, we then made our way to our final destination of the day - Queen Hatchepsut’s Tomb. A massive tomb set in the rock face. It looks breathtaking, even from a distance, and we all felt small and humble walking up its steps.
By the time we got back to the boat we had time for a late lunch, and then settled down on some sunbeds and did some serious relaxing as we pulled away from Luxor East Bank and headed off on our first stretch of the Nile cruise.
When we were all dressed for the evening, we headed up to the bar for the manager’s cocktail happy hour, where they were serving up all kinds of fabulous nibbles too. We grazed on a few bits and pieces and indulged in a couple of cocktails before then heading down to the restaurant. We all wished we’d never even looked at the nibbles though – because we were then presented with a five course meal. Yes, five courses!
Fruit or seafood salad, followed by soup, followed by quiche, followed by steak and vegetables, followed by toffee pudding – and we thought that was the last of it, until we discovered that it was somebody’s birthday onboard and the chef had baked a massive cake that the entire boat was expected to share. We were all feeling quite green round the gills by this time, everyone tugging at their waistbands – and it didn’t help matters when the waiters made me get up to join in the birthday conga around the restaurant! (Derek and my mam escaped this embarrassment, may I add).
Arrived at Edfu late evening, and we sat with a few drinks watching people coming and going along the main street of Edfu. It was very bizarre and interesting to see that kids were playing football in playgrounds at around 11pm – and whole families were gathering and chatting in the streets. There seemed to be a whole community spirit going on at such a late hour – and I wondered perhaps if they prefer to spend time outside when the sun isn’t out. There was no longer a nip in the air either – we couldn’t decide if this was because we’d moved away from Luxor, or whether our first night had been unusually chilly.
Friday 2nd April (my 30th birthday)
Another early morning – but it was ok, because I had lots of cards to open, and we had an exciting day planned. Derek had bought me a limited edition Steiff bear for my birthday, which he’d given me before we’d left home, but he also had another little surprise lined up, which he presented to me with my birthday card – an aerobatics experience for when we got back home!
Went for another grab and go breakfast, and then headed off to Edfu Temple of Horus – the falcon-headed God.
After a long mosey around, with some great history lessons from Ashraf, and also learning for ourselves that if you take a photograph of a local you will be charged (it’s best not to argue), we went back to the boat and set sail for Kom Ombo.
Spent the afternoon round by the pool, and I went for a birthday massage at 3pm – hoping to be further relaxed. Unfortunately this wasn’t the case. The masseuse was offering to give me birthday extras for free. Given his amorous behaviour and the fact that he told me to get on the floor for these extras, I almost expected to be chased around the massage table in the style of Benny Hill...so I grabbed my flip flops and scurried back to my sunbed. It was one birthday surprise I could have done without!
Once we arrived in Kom Ombo we walked up to Kom Ombo Temple (of the crocodile God) – with a trail of kids behind us asking for money and trying to flog us bookmarks. Once inside the temple grounds, Ashraf gave us a history of the temple. He also pointed out various carvings and told us what they meant – specifically birthing seats. He said that the Ancient Egyptians would sit down whilst in labour, so that gravity would aid the process and make it easier (I’m not sure easier would be the correct term, but I understood what he was trying to say – I think). And then we all sat and watched the sunset whilst sitting on a wall with the temple directly behind us. Was a perfect birthday treat.
Funnily enough, it was Galibeya fancy dress night, where everyone was expected to dress up in traditional outfits. It felt as though the entire boat was celebrating my birthday (even though they weren’t).
As we got changed into our fancy dress costumes, Derek gave me one final birthday present – a diamond bangle (my birthstone is diamond).
At the restaurant we discovered our two waiters, Mohammed and Milad, had decorated our table with birthday banners and decorations – and the chef had baked me a big coconut cake, mmm.
When we were stuffed, once again, we popped in to see how the party at the bar was shaping up – but when Derek got dragged up to partake in a game, and I to do a belly dance, we all slinked off outside onto the deck to enjoy some peace and quiet – and to watch as we pulled into Aswan.
Saturday 3rd April
Tired, hungover and, did I mention, tired? – but still, another very early morning beckoned. After a couple of mouthfuls of breakfast, we were once again onboard the coach (complete with life jackets underarm). And off we went to visit the High Dam (the world’s 3rd biggest dam, by all accounts).
It was a very impressive sight indeed, but for some reason I think it appealed to the men of the group more. After ten minutes or so, most of the women were stifling yawns, eager to get back on track to discover more tombs and temples. Thankfully we left High Dam just before a coach load of school kids arrived, and we stopped further down the road at a papyrus shop. After more retail therapy and a cup of Egyptian tea, we continued on our journey to Philae Temple. In order to get to Philae Temple (a temple dedicated to Isis), we had to take a boat (hence the need for life jackets). Ashraf informed us that the temple itself had been relocated due to flooding from the High Dam. Nevertheless it was a beautiful site to wander round, and all the carvings were immense.
The heat was absolutely fierce today, and we were all feeling exhausted and dehydrated by the time we got back to The Ritz – but we didn’t get time for a refreshing drink at the bar, because it was then time for an hour long trip out on the Nile in a felluca boat – where we floated around Elephantine Island and Kitchener’s Island.
After lunch we decided against venturing out into the streets of Aswan in favour of catching some rays (and some sleep) round by the pool. Egyptian mosquitoes were really making a meal of me by this point – and I was too afraid to use the Deet we’d brought along, because it had melted my shoes and took my nail varnish off the night before...eek!
During our evening meal we were all left a little bit traumatised – by the sheer amount of food we were expected to eat. It was Easter Special night – which consisted of seven courses!
Salmon with toast, followed by mushroom soup, followed by seafood pancake, followed by lemon sorbet, followed by beef and vegetables, followed by ice-cream meringue, followed by coffee. It was just ludicrous amounts of food.
There were some Nubian dancers performing in the bar area after dinner – but after a glass of wine or two out on the deck, to aid digestion of course, whilst looking out across the Nile at the spectacular sight of the Tombs of the Nobles in the distance, we all just turned in early; the early mornings, hot sun and hectic days were really starting to take their toll.
Sunday 4th April
Wake up call at 5:30am, and straight to Aswan airport. Boarded our 50 seater charter flight to Abu Simbel. The flight only took 40 minutes, and there was a coach waiting at the other end to take us to the impressive Abu Simbel temples. When we walked around the corner and saw the gargantuan seated figures a wave of shivers rippled through my body, despite the heat. They were more impressive than I’d imagined.
One of the temples was built in honour of Rameses II and another one was built in honour of his favourite wife Nefertary. I found a lot of the chambers inside Nefertary’s temple to be small, dark and claustrophobic – in fact the whole place had quite a haunted feel. We spent a good couple of hours wandering in and around the temples before heading back to Aswan, to our boat. After all that, we were back in time for lunch – it’s amazing what you can do when you get up early enough!
We sat out on deck all afternoon lazing in the sun, and enjoying the sites as we sailed down the Nile back to Luxor – though we were almost driven to destruction by Celine Dion music that spewed from the speakers constantly – it was on set repeat for at least 8 hours (and I’m not exaggerating)...including Christmas tunes! But inarguably, you can’t beat sitting round the pool with a cold glass of lager watching camels in the distance, and local kids splashing about and playing in the Nile – Celine Dion or not.
Evening meal tonight was a BBQ buffet – which was a big welcome relief for our over laden stomachs. We enjoyed a few drinks out on deck before dragging ourselves like zombies off to bed at around 11pm.
Monday 5th April
Felt like we were getting a lie in – wakeup call wasn’t until 7am! We were ushered onto the coach by 8am and headed out to the East Bank of Luxor to see Karnak Temple. Ashraf advised us that Karnak is the biggest temple in the world – with 9 bilons altogether.
We were left to wander around the large site, and so we made our way to the avenue of rams...a whole line-up of sphinx looking rams!
Afterwards we went on to visit Luxor Temple, which was a lot smaller – but impressive all the same. Again, the sun was ferocious today, and I was thankful that we weren’t visiting during peak summer months!
The rest of the afternoon we hung out by the poolside, catching up on sleep, catching some rays – and sipping refreshing lager.
Tuesday 6th April
Wake up call at 4:15. We had to go and wait on a neighbouring boat, because ours was setting sail for Denderah – and we’d decided to fly out to Cairo instead. Hung around in the other boat’s bar drinking tea and eating croissants until 5:55am when we were picked up and escorted to the airport.
Arrived in Cairo at 9am, met our guide in the airport and then boarded our coach. We hadn’t been on the road for long when we stopped at a giant mosque for photo opportunities – and then finally off we went to see the Great Pyramids of Giza. Wow!
I’d always known that the pyramids were large, but when you’re standing at the foot of one, you realise just how jaw-droppingly massive they are. Each stone block is preposterously big, and I still can’t comprehend how the Ancient Egyptians actually managed to stack them up.
Unfortunately we did get hassled by men trying to flog us camel rides at the foot of the pyramids – which was a great shame. We’d gone to view some of the world’s most impressive creations, and spent a lot of our time ducking and diving trying to avoid people, when really all we wanted was a bit of peace and quiet to absorb the sights. It was all quite strange too, in that I’d always expected the pyramids to be in the middle of desert – which is totally not the case. If you face away from the pyramids, there are restaurants and hotels right next to them!
The coach took us to a viewing point where we could see all three pyramids in the distance – which was an ideal photo spot (and free from hassle too).
From there we then went round to see the infamous Sphinx. My mam was utterly in awe at how big its paws were, and although we couldn’t get right up close to it, we still got plenty of great photo opportunities.
We all felt quite famous too when a man asked if he could take a photo of us standing with his little girl – not quite sure what that was all about (maybe it was something to do with our pasty skin – or perhaps my cowboy hat!).
None of us had had any malaria medication, because the holiday was mainly around the Luxor and Aswan areas, which are malaria free zones. We’d decided to chance it in Cairo for the sake of one day (which has a low risk of malaria), and we hoped for the best. But when my mam got bitten on the bum and me on my foot, we were both slightly worried.
After a quick stop at another papyrus shop – which we sat out on the coach, we headed round to TGI Fridays for lunch. We’d much rather have eaten sandwiches on the go though, because we felt that too much time was wasted sitting eating rather than seeing the sights of Cairo.
Anyway, after a 3 course set meal, we ventured off to the Museum of Cairo – which we wouldn’t have even had time to wander round in a whole day, let alone a few hours. It was by far the most interesting museum I’ve ever visited, and I would love to go back. Inside we saw Tutankhamen’s coffin and sarcophagus, along with his famous burial mask, which was sublime. And for an extra 100 LE we went into the Royal Mummy section. Glass coffins are set out all around displaying the actual mummies of Kings and Queens of Ancient Egypt. Their small fragile bodies for the most part looked charred, blackened and leathery – their hair and teeth still intact. Most of them appeared to have been really quite short, and some of them had an orange tinge to their hair.
And then I saw him – having heard so much about Rameses II all week, I could finally put a face to the name when I saw him set out in his own glass display coffin! He didn’t quite look the mighty man I’d expected. Along with a small but romanesque shaped nose, he would be lucky if he pushed 5 foot.
We could have wandered around the museum for at least a week, but alas it was time to leave to head back to the airport. The coach journey was a white knuckle ride of sheer terror. Let’s just say driving etiquette in Cairo isn’t exactly polite – and with the total volume of traffic on the roads, it was a most scary experience – and we were all thankful to still be alive by the time we reached the airport!
Arrived back at The Ritz for 10pm, where we eat sandwiches and drank Coke out on the deck whilst regaling tales of the day.
Wednesday 7th April
Out of bed for 4am – the earliest yet! And me, Derek and my mam (along with a couple of other guests) were taken in a mini bus to a motor boat port in Luxor. The boat took us over to the West Bank, and from there we transferred to another mini bus, which took us to the site of the Hod Hod hot air balloons, just before sunrise.
We all climbed into a basket and were up in the air in time to see the sun peaking over the horizon. We flew over the Valley of the Kings, Queen Hatchepsut’s tomb and above people’s houses for just under an hour in total – the scenery was stunning, and completely contrasting. Towards the Valley of the Kings it was desert like terrain, but over towards the Nile there were green fields and plantations. The houses we floated above had no roofs – so we could see people still lying in their beds, and kids getting ready for school.
When we landed, we came to an abrupt stop in a farmer’s field – and quite understandably, the farmer was very annoyed. I do hope they receive compensation from the hot air balloon company, because I’m guessing it’s not that uncommon.
We were back on The Ritz just as they were opening the doors for breakfast – and then we headed back to our rooms to pack our suitcases for the return flight home. Egypt was a fascinating country – though I must admit, we were all exhausted for at least a week after we’d got back home! (If like us you want to see the whole shebang, try fitting it into a fortnight instead of a week!)
Oh and our stone plaque of The Final Judgement didn’t make the journey home – it was snapped in three places, which was hardly surprising when we saw a large dusty footprint on our suitcase. Rather than putting it on the hall wall, we’re thinking of putting it up in the summer house instead. We’re hoping the cracks will add character and give it an aged look...ahem.
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