Chaaya Reef Ellaidhoo – Sun, Sea, Sand & Skinny-dipping!

April 2009

Location: Chaaya Reef Ellaidhoo, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives

 Derek and I were glued to the seaplane window as we soared above the clusters of islands below – each of them looking like the markings on a peacock’s feather. 

Nestled in the North Ari Atoll, and just a twenty minute transfer from Male Airport, lies Chaaya Reef Ellaidhoo. Upon approaching the island, the first thing we noticed was the concrete wall surrounding and protecting the delicate shoreline from the potentially damaging Indian Ocean. Although not the most pretty of features by Maldivian standards, the overall island did not disappoint or fail to deliver the little slice of paradise we’d come to expect from this part of the world (our third visit to the Maldives – we have a definite soft spot for the Indian Ocean). Customary turquoise sea, lemon coloured reef sharks, white sand and an abundance of coconut-bearing palm trees were all there to greet us...

Chaaya Reef Ellaidhoo is arguably one of the best snorkelling/diving locations in the Maldives. Its house reef circles the entire island. From clown fish (yes, we found Nemo) to turtles, stingrays to angel fish – we saw them all. There was even a resident moray eel who popped his head out every day to say hello – or to warn us off, I wasn’t quite sure which. Derek would say the latter, but considering the eel never bit us I’d give him the benefit of the doubt – even though he did bare his teeth like a cat. And every day during early evening, a fever of rays would glide gracefully into the shallows for feeding time. The staff would throw in raw fish for them to eat, and it was fascinating to watch them up close and personal, especially as this all takes place right next to the bar – where we were plied with drinks aplenty and bowls of nibbles from our good friend Nalin.

After long days spent splashing around, lazing about and pampering ourselves, we’d kick back with an all-inclusive cocktail (or two) and numerous glasses of wine, searching for fruit bats swooping overhead, and watching tropical fish meander around our toes as we dipped our feet into the bath-warm sea. We even managed to wish upon a few falling stars as we stargazed under the clear night sky (the Maldives has hardly any light pollution, so the night sky is to die for). The 9 – 5 stresses that we’d brought with us quickly seeped into insignificance faster than we could say Ellaidhoo.

There isn’t much in the way of entertainment on the island, apart from a local band that serenades people in and around the bar every other night, and, of course, the odd spot of crab racing – but who needs entertainment? It’s not that kind of holiday.

We ventured out onto the Romeo & Juliet island excursion, where we were taken to a tiny uninhabited island and left to our own devices for the entire day. We felt like we were starring in Shipwrecked – only safe in the knowledge that a dhoni boat was coming back for us later. 

The day provided us with a unique opportunity to top up our tans without worrying about annoying tan-lines and to do a spot of skinny-dipping – the island is so remote other boats rarely pass by, so you can whip all your clothes off should you wish (although bearing in mind, it is illegal for any kind of nudity in a Muslim country, so if you do see the tiniest hint of a boat coming, then cover up – no matter how much of an exhibitionist you are). To assure our day was even more perfect, we were supplied with a large picnic hamper filled with fruit, salad, meat, fish, rice and potatoes, and a cooler full of water and soft drinks – even a few cans of lager were thrown in for good measure. It was absolute bliss. 

So, why do we love the Maldives so much? Just think back to the old Bounty adverts (the chocolate bars, not the kitchen towels!) and that about says it all. I can’t wait till we’re there again...